S3 E44 MICHELIN Guide Florida: Perspective & Predictions 2024

In this episode, I analyze the MICHELIN Guide Florida and its upcoming April 18th awards ceremony in Tampa. 

• Is South Florida feeling jaded over the Guide?
• When will negotiations resume for the Florida contract?
• What do the one, two, and three-star ratings mean?
•  Will any restaurant lose its star? If so, which one (s)?
• Will the MICHELIN Guide rank up any restaurant? If so, which one (s)?
• Will Miami see any three-starred restaurant (s) this year?
• Who are the new restaurant additions to the guide?
• Is 2024 a shakeup year for the MICHELIN Guide?
• What are some essential guidelines to know about MICHELIN?

Can't get enough MICHELIN Guide coverage?  Episodes 3, 13, 26, and 29 of this podcast will give you additional Guide information and offer more detailed, deep, geeky dives on this topic. I also recently interviewed Visit Florida's Dana Young on the Michelin Guide Florida's current impact and future. That's episode 41.

You can also visit the BLOG for an extensive look at my full Michelin Guide coverage over the last 11 years.

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Thank you for listening. As always, from my “palette”  to yours,

Cheers!

Brenda Popritkin

Transcript

S3 E44 Michelin Guide Miami Florida: Perspective and Predictions

Hello! My name is Brenda, and I am the owner and editor of The Whet Palette blog and podcast. 

This episode will tackle all things Michelin Guide Florida and the upcoming ceremony, as I see it. 

Who am I, exactly?

The short answer? I am a Michelin and Miami dining enthusiast. My perspective comes from the many Michelin restaurants I have dined in the U.S. and abroad. Spoiler alert: that now totals 272 stars. That's a whole lot of miles and calories. Except for Benu, Addison, and the newly added Smyth, that count includes 10 of the 13 U.S. three-starred locations. It does not make me an expert, but I do have a lot of perspective when comparing other cities to Miami. 

I use the Michelin guide as just that—a guide. I enjoy the journey, even when disagreeing with the Guide's selections. There is something special about the Guide. More often than not, following the Guide led me to exceptional meals of a lifetime that were worth a special journey.  

Before diving in, I want to provide more history for those new to the Michelin Guide and The Whet Palette. Since 2014, before launching this podcast, I closely looked at our city's potential for a guide. Every couple of years, I wrote an article about the Michelin Guide Miami and studied our potential for one. I always had faith it would happen in Miami, so I was not surprised when it was confirmed they would launch in Miami. You can find ALL of those articles on my website, thewhetpalette.com

If you want more Michelin coverage on this podcast, Episodes 3, 13, 26, and 29 will give you just that and offer more DETAILED deep geeky dives on this topic. There, you will find more scoop into Michelin Guide facts and tidbits you might not know and that I will not be covering again today. I recently interviewed Visit Florida's Dana Young on the Michelin Guide Florida's current impact and future. That's episode 41.

I was blessed to attend the ceremonies in 2022 and 2023. The first occurred in Orlando, and the second was in Miami last year. This year, the Michelin Guide heads to Tampa on April 18th. For whatever reason, I don't notice as much excitement as in the past years. Maybe because the first one was unchartered territory, and the second one was here? Miami may be saturated with Michelin everything. Or maybe South Florida is a little jaded? Not that it would surprise me, but I would caution against it. This is Florida's third year with a guide, and the first contract with the Michelin Guide is up. That means negotiations resume for the next contract, as Dana Young explained in Episode 41. I am hopeful and excited they will agree that Broward County and Palm Beach will be added next.

 Before I go all in with this episode: SOME DISCLAIMERS. It should be apparent. I keep it pretty real around my blog and social media. Sometimes, that means I am not the most P.C. person. But, owning a blog for the past 11 years and a new podcast only in its third season, which is all about MY dining and travel experiences, chosen and paid for by me, means I can steer my content as I please without owing anyone anything. Freedom to just be. 

I am NOT affiliated with the Michelin guide in any way. I also DO NOT have all the answers. Other than quotes I will share DIRECTLY from the Michelin Guide website or facts I have researched, everything I will discuss is MY opinion based on MY experience dining at Michelin-starred restaurants throughout the U.S. and Europe. 

OK. Let's begin. 

The RATINGS EXPLAINED

The Michelin Guide states, "Restaurants may receive zero to 3 stars for the quality of their food based on: quality of the ingredients used, mastery of flavor and cooking techniques, the personality of the chef in his cuisine, value for money and consistency between visits." 

One star: A very good restaurant in its category.

This, in particular, is important to note for this episode. I have established that the U.S. and Europe greatly vary in what a one-star looks like. The U.S. one stars are the wild wild west, and anything goes. It's primarily different in Europe. But the phrase "in its category" is all we need to know. It would help if Michelin would disclose what categories those are. But they don't. However, The Surf Club and Los Felix are not in the same category. But in Michelin's terms, they combine many different types of restaurants and award them within their mysterious categories. 

Two stars: Excellent cooking, worth a detour.

Three stars: Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey. 

Bib Gourmand: great quality cooking at a great price

The 2s and 3s in the U.S. are uniform in style. 

The Michelin Guide also gives some special awards. We do have some of these in Florida, but not all yet: 

Green Star Restaurants identify restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their practices regarding sustainable gastronomy. 

Also, Chef Mentor, Young Chef, Service, Sommelier, Exceptional Cocktail, and Pastry Chefs.

Let's start with the basic questions based on the current list. 

Do I think any restaurant will lose a star? NO

There is a difference between what I THINK will happen and what I THINK should happen.

Michelin SHOULD remove Los Felix.

But I don't think Michelin WILL drop Los Felix. 

At least not this third year. They may save their bold moves for next year with the new contract in place. 

Shocker, but I still strongly feel Los Felix does not belong as a one-star restaurant representing Miami. I will not let it go, so bear with me. Is it a "very good restaurant in its category," as the Michelin Guide states? Again, what category is that, exactly? I wish Michelin would dish it out. Casual Mexicanish? Latin Americanish? 

The Guide mentions online that it is "highly creative Mexican cooking." There is no way. "Raw chocolate tart" hasn't been on the menu since its first several months opened. I don't understand. I struggle to find just one phenomenal thing about Los Felix that warrants a solid star. The food is just OK—not terrible. I am not saying it's awful, but not VERY GOOD enough to make it into a Michelin Guide. 

It's also tiny. The tables are uncomfortably next to each other. I don't find the vibe special, especially in the hotter summer months when the front door is constantly open and it's 90 degrees inside. The Michelin guide describes it as "modern, organic, and youthful." Youthful? Is it because the youth doesn't care to bump elbows with strangers while dining? Sweating your ass off in July with the doors open. No entiendo. 

It's quite a mystery. Maybe "good restaurant in its category" means the category of restaurants they add to confuse diners and keep this argument going. Will the Guide move Los Felix down to a Bib Gourmand? They absolutely should. But I am not necessarily holding my breath over it. 

The other one is ElCielo. I haven't made my way back to ElCielo since 2018. I was not a fan of it then, and I have considered a return visit, but at a base price of $289 per person, it's a tough pill to swallow to "go see if they improved." I am still waiting to receive favorable feedback from anyone visiting, so I remain discouraged from returning. So, if you are that diner who has gone and loved it, let me know. I have nothing to go on and don't have $600+ sitting around for this experiment. I have plenty of other places to spend that on that don't involve washing my hands with chocolate and silly smoke and mirror tricks. 

Which ones to rank up?

Do I think Michelin will rank anyone up? NO

Should they? Yes. 

This is a reminder that when I am listing these, I am thinking of the established pattern set forth by the Michelin Guide in the U.S., specifically in Miami. And you cannot deny a pattern. It's not opinion, it's fact. Regardless of what is said, it does not compare to Europe. I had the blessing of experiencing 1 and 3 stars in Italy and Spain recently, and wow, the ones there could easily be United States 2s. Considering that this is the Florida Guide within the U.S. bubble, I went through the list of 18 Bibs to see if any could or should be bumped to one star. 

Based on THAT, I want Zitz Sum to move from a BIB to a one-star. I can't think of a restaurant that has been working any harder pre-during- post-Michelin. It's about more than just the Guide being here. It's just what Zitz Sum does. They always keep moving and innovating. In Michelin's own words, from their online point of view, they say, "The cooking is original and gutsy and makes delicious sense." Doesn't it make sense to move them up? I was heartbroken to see them remain a bib at the last ceremony. Nonsense. 

I would bump Brasserie Laurel, La Mar, and Fiola from recommended restaurants to a one-star from the list of Michelin-recommended restaurants without a star or BIB. How are those three restaurants just recommended, but Los Felix has an actual one-star in their name? These all have tasting menus and have worked tirelessly to provide beautiful experiences. Food that is memorable and well executed. La Mar and Fiola have also been consistent for YEARS in Miami. YEARS! In Miami Math, one year equals at least three regular years. They are all well-thought-out and executed concepts with cool vibes, excellent service, and delicious food—distinguished for sure. 

I would also rank up Macchialina to a BIB. Right now, they remain in limbo on the recommended list of what Michelin calls now "Good Cooking." 

Also, let's talk about NAOE again. Facts about NAOE. It should have been included in the Guide since the first Florida edition. I understand the rumor is that the inspectors couldn't get a reservation. At the time, they had COVID restrictions where you had to do a full buyout, and then only four diners were allowed at a time. But that changed in 2022 and most of last year. As of right now, it has been temporarily closed but will reopen soon. But it's important to know that before Hiden, before The Den, Miami had NAOE. It has been THEE leader in omakase since 2009. Good enough that I always said they could have led with two stars for Florida. One of Michelin Miami's greatest mysteries is how they can continue to be overlooked. 

Ranking up from 1 to a 2? Or 2 to 3?

Will Michelin rank a restaurant from a 1 to a 2? NO

Should they? Also NO. 

Why not? No one stands out enough to be bumped up to a two and even less to a three. 

What have I found common in the U.S. 2 stars that we lack in South Florida? Service. Although the Michelin Guide states they only rate the food, the pattern exists. Sorry, not sorry. It's there. There is no casual service at all ever. The restaurant can be casual, but the service always remains proper. Not formal, but proper and highly performative. You never see the staff sweat. It's almost like an acting class; they always keep character. They also all communicate with each other as a team, using hand signals, head nods, and tricks so that the guests usually never hear things being said. Someone seems cold? Oh, a pashmina just magically appears. You want sparkling water? How did the person pouring appear within seconds and know what to pour without hearing it? 

Also, most restaurants research who is dining and keep notes for when guests return. 

Of course, there are exceptions, like Momofuku KO in N.Y. (which closed last year, by the way). They were casual overall in all aspects but held on to a 2 for a long time. But I am discussing the similarities of the 2s I have experienced. Because of that, I don't see anyone else in Miami moving up to a 2—not now and not for a couple of more years, I think—maybe even year 5. 

Robuchon is our only 2-star right now, and I don't foresee them being moved up to a 3. They have been consistent with every one of my visits except one time in 2022, so there's that. But they are not like any 3 in the U.S. Love them, but don't see them moving up. 

I see all the current ones keeping their stars. 

Ariete

Stubborn Seed

Boia De

Le Jardinier

Cote 

The Den

Tambourine

The Surf Club

I would have preferred them to have evolved the menu or operations more, but they kept things steady. One exception for me would be Le Jardinier, but I needed to visit more often to catch any interruptions in their performance. My one visit was solid. 

Tambourine—they've had some kitchen shakeups and rattled a bit, but not enough to lose a star. 

The Surf Club- I adore them too. To be honest, I have heard and seen photos from a couple of diners where The Surf Club wasn't consistent. My visits have all been spectacular, so there's that. But in the big picture, I don't think this year would be a year where it would get taken away. Not them and not anyone. But everyone should be on alert for 2025 because that's when I foresee changes coming. 

Michelin's New Additions

This one came with some wildcards, and it can go any way. Let's discuss. 

EntreNos

Kaori

Maty’s

Ogawa

Ossobuco

Pez

Shingo

Tâm Tâm

I was not surprised to see EntreNos, Shingo, and Maty's on the list. Where will they be placed? 

Shingo could be a new star for Miami, based on Hiden receiving a star while Shingo was leading and that Shingo tops Hiden now. This is my honest opinion. I just reviewed Shingo on episode 43. Take a listen for details. It's fabulous. 

EntreNos, reviewed in episode 42, is lovely and has potential. Are they too new? I think so. I would give them more time for consistency. In style, it's on par with Lion & the Rambler. If MICHELIN gives them a star, it should equally reward Lion & the Rambler. 

Maty's, well, chef Valerie Chang is a superstar, Michelin or not. I am a huge fan. The prices HAVE been going up there, so I wonder if Maty's is now priced out of a Bib category. And if it's going in the one-star category, then we default again to Michelin's definition of it being a good restaurant in its category. Simply put. IT IS a good restaurant in any category you want to place it in. It's hard for me to remain subjective on this one because I adore Maty's so much. Every experience has been delicious, with a vibe and service to match. For reference, Itamae, also by Chang and her brother Nando, had a BIB, but it got dropped by the Guide when it pumped up its chef-tasting menu and never moved up to a star. All of it is puzzling to me. 

Ogawa, I have yet to visit. The ambitious pricing, starting at $350 per person immediately within opening, has kept me away. I wasn't a huge fan of Hiyakawa, and that's where I first had Masa's omakase, so it's yet to be one I have run to. It was good, but at the time, not impressive enough for me to return. I will let Michelin lead on this one. It does seem they favor high-end Omakase spots, so maybe they do. In their description, Michelin says it's "an omakase that stuns." With a comment like that, it sounds like it would be an in. Would it stun and not be awarded as a Michelin star? 

Kaori, I loved it when chef Raymond Li was there, but then he left, and I waited to return. I don't know when Michelin visited and if it was when he was there. All that to say, I can vouch for it while Li was there, but I haven't tried the new version. 

Tam Tam reviewed on episode 34. It is fine. It could go in the Bib category based on price. It was hot upon opening, and Miami couldn't get enough of it. The 305 obsession, like everything in Miami, has died down. I would be shocked if it got a star, so if Michelin is going for the shock factor- this would be it. It could stay on the recommended list and call it a day. That's just me.

 Ossobuco, recently reviewed on episode 42, was another Michelin wild card. I went after Michelin named it an addition after only being opened for a few months. A shocker given it is not anything we don't already have in Miami. You will have to listen to episode 42 for all the details. Overall, It's OK and could be recommended, but I don't see what they are doing that is so impressive to merit such a quick addition. I suppose I could go back in the future and try their counter tasting menu which they do offer. On their online review of it, Michelin states that Ossobuco has "a weekend D.J. who knows how to work a room seal the deal." So maybe it fits in with Michelin's Miamisized version of itself? NO idea. You know who else has an occasional D.J.? Los Felix—just saying. Who can name another Michelin restaurant in Italy with a D.J.? Please let me know. I would love to compare them and learn more. 

Pez, THAT was an unfortunately timed addition given that it is listed as temporarily closed. I hate it because it's just not a good look for Michelin. It makes them seem out of touch, you know? I never visited, so I don't have a food opinion on them. For what it's worth, I reached out to Pez. I was told they closed a few days before the announcement. The current construction on Flagler Street was the #1 cause for their decision to close that location. Sales dropped more than 50% while still paying full rent and expenses, and it became unsustainable. The immediate plan is to host a popup in NYC during the summer after Memorial Day while they look for a smaller space in Miami and reopen hopefully by year’s end. 

To summarize, I am not expecting too much change until next year. Last year brought on one new star, and I think this year might bring up to three new stars (Shingo /Maty's/EntreNos/Ogawa have the strongest chances, especially Shingo and Ogawa). There's plenty of room for a couple of shockers from Michelin. Would it be a Michelin Guide Ceremony without some controversy? 

The ceremony will take place in Tampa on April 18th—doors to the ceremony open at 6:30 pm. I don't know if they will do a live video on YouTube like last year, but you can sign up for alerts on their channel and Facebook account. As of this recording, April 8th, they have not announced it on Facebook yet. 

There were many audio and teleprompter issues last year. I hope they have looked into that closely so the ceremony goes off without problems. God willing, I will also be there and post on my Instagram stories as much as possible.

While we wait for the reveal, let's end with a look into some fundamental Michelin guidelines and facts many aren't familiar with or choose to overlook. If you listen to anything closely on this page, THIS IS IT. I have written and talked about this before, but in case you missed it, here it is again. 

In the United States, the Michelin Guide is ONLY published in California, New York City & Westchester County, Chicago, Colorado, Florida, Georgia, and Washington D.C. That's it. Only restaurants in these areas can authentically claim to have a starred restaurant.

• "Restaurants may receive zero to 3 stars for the quality of their food based on five criteria: quality of the ingredients used, mastery of flavor and cooking techniques, the personality of the chef in his cuisine, value for money, and consistency between visits."

• "Restaurant inspectors do not look at the interior decor, table setting, or service quality when awarding stars – these are instead indicated by the number of 'covers' it receives, represented by the fork and spoon symbol." The cover symbol is for comfort and quality and It ranges from quite comfortable to luxury in the traditional style. That said, the online version of the Guide doesn't list the covers. Not sure why not. 

• "There's no such thing as a Michelin-starred chef. Having worked in a Michelin-starred restaurant or even owning a string of three-starred establishments doesn't make one a Michelin-starred chef – because the term doesn't technically exist. The MICHELIN Guide awards stars to restaurants based on the quality of the food they serve, and not to individuals. Meals are often the collective efforts of an entire team, and not one man (or woman) alone. "

• "Chefs can't take off with the stars, nor do the stars transfer to another restaurant owned by the same chef. If a chef who runs a Michelin-starred restaurant in Spain opens a new restaurant in Hong Kong, this does not automatically make the latter a Michelin-starred restaurant. "

• Chefs can't technically return a star. They can disagree, tantrum, and announce to the world that they are returning a star, but if the Michelin Guide wants you in it, they keep you in it. It's fully up to them not to give you a star the following year. It's not up to the chef. End of story.

• The MICHELIN Guide isn't only about fine dining and fancy restaurants. Globally, stars have been awarded to a wide spectrum of restaurants.

If you made it this far, congratulations, you truly are Miami and Michelin obsessed like me. THANK YOU so  much for tuning in. Please take a second to rate the podcast on Apple or Spotify if that’s where you listen. It helps local podcasts like mine break through the almighty algorithm.  

OK. That's it for me today. Enjoy this series of Michelin podcast episodes and blog articles from my passionate Miami palate, The Whet Palette. I will be back with a follow up episode once the results are in. Until then, ciao!